Subscription audit guide

How to find and cancel subscriptions you forgot about

The average person underestimates their recurring spending by a wide margin — not because they are careless, but because the charges are small, monthly, and named things like APL*ITUNES or DRI*SOFTWARE. This page is the method: pull the statement, find the repeats, decode the descriptors, cancel, and total up what you got back.

Everything here runs in your browser. The worksheet below saves only to this device's local storage. There is no account, no server, and nothing is uploaded.

Step 1 — Export 3–12 months of statements

One month is not enough. Annual subscriptions, quarterly billing and the "we paused it and quietly resumed" pattern only show up over a longer window. Nearly every bank and card issuer has a CSV or "download transactions" button — look under Statements, Activity, or Export. Ask for CSV rather than PDF; PDF statements are painful to search and impossible to total.

Do this for every account, not just the main one. Forgotten subscriptions cluster on the card you stopped using — that is exactly why you forgot them.

Step 2 — Find the repeating charges

A subscription has a signature: the same merchant, a similar amount, at a roughly regular interval. Doing this by eye works but is slow and you will miss the ones that changed price. Two options:

Watch for price creep. A service that started at $8.99 and is now $17.99 will not look like a duplicate to your eye, but it is the same subscription — and the increase is usually why it is worth cancelling.

Step 3 — Decode mystery statement descriptors

Most "what is this charge?" panic is a payment processor's name, not a scam. Here are the ones that come up most often. Search the table for the string on your statement:

Descriptor on statementWhat it actually isWhere to cancel

If a charge is genuinely unrecognised after checking app stores and processors, treat it as fraud: call the number on the back of your card and dispute it. Do not call any phone number that appears in the transaction description itself.

Step 4 — The audit worksheet

List what you found, mark each one keep or cancel, and this totals the annual damage and exactly what you get back. It saves to this device automatically.

Nothing added yet. Add your first subscription above, or to see how it works.

Step 5 — Actually cancel, without the retention trap

  1. Cancel at the source, not at the bank. Blocking the card leaves the contract alive and can send the account to collections. Cancel in the service's own billing settings first.
  2. Check who bills you. If you subscribed inside an iPhone or Android app, the service cannot cancel it — you must do it in Apple or Google's subscription settings.
  3. Screenshot the confirmation and keep the cancellation email. This is your evidence if a charge appears next month.
  4. Expect a retention offer. Half off for three months is a real saving only if you were going to keep using it. If you forgot it existed, you were not.
  5. Diarise the renewal date for anything you keep, a week before it bills. That week is when cancelling is free rather than a refund argument.
  6. Re-run the audit in 90 days. Free trials you start this month become charges next quarter, and this is the step everyone skips.

Cancelling is a legal right in a lot of places — in the US, services must let you cancel by the same method you signed up with. If a site makes you phone in for a subscription you started with two clicks, say explicitly that you are cancelling, note the date and the agent's name, and dispute any later charge.

Do step 2 in five seconds instead of an hour

The free bank statement analyzer takes the CSV you exported in step 1 and does the repeat-detection for you: categorised budget, month-by-month in/out/net, top merchants, and every recurring subscription with its annualised cost — separated from genuine fixed bills. It is free, needs no signup, and like this page it never uploads your statement anywhere.

Open the statement analyzer →

FAQ

How do I find subscriptions I forgot I signed up for?

Export 3–12 months of transactions as CSV and look for any merchant that appears three or more times at a regular interval. Check every card, including ones you rarely use, and check the Apple App Store and Google Play subscription screens separately — those bill many services under one descriptor.

What is that unrecognised charge on my bank statement?

Usually a payment processor rather than the merchant you remember. APL*, GOOGLE *, SP , PADDLE.NET, DRI* and FS * are all billing intermediaries. Search the descriptor in the table above first, then in the app stores, and only treat it as fraud once both come up empty.

Is it safe to upload my bank statement to a website?

As a rule, no — a statement is a complete map of your life and most tools upload it to a server. Prefer tools that state plainly that parsing happens in your browser. Both this worksheet and the statement analyzer are fully client-side: you can disconnect from the internet after the page loads and they still work, which is the test worth applying to any such tool.

Should I just cancel the card instead?

No. Cancelling or blocking the card ends the payment, not the agreement — the balance can keep accruing and end up in collections. Cancel in the service's billing settings, keep the confirmation, and only involve the bank if a charge appears after a documented cancellation.

How much does the average person waste on forgotten subscriptions?

Estimates vary wildly, so use your own number rather than a headline: the worksheet above totals what you are actually paying. Most people doing this for the first time find between two and five live subscriptions they had entirely forgotten about.

How often should I do this?

Quarterly. Free trials started in one quarter become charges in the next, so an annual audit consistently misses a full cycle of them.